Bangkok, Year Seven

Xmas 2011

2011-12-26T09:14:00.006+07:00

Christmas felt more special this year. A happy butterfly fairy princess pranced around in her pjs all morning. Happy holidays!

Slow going going going

2011-11-07T16:53:00.003+07:00

We prepared three weeks too soon. Tense days involving frantic searches for sand bags, bottled water, buckets, canned food and other things could have been spread out over a longer period of time, and with much less stress. The huge volume of water is still out there but it's probably not going to come gushing in, although my paranoia entertains the possibility that it could still spew out from the sewers or rush in from river or canal overflow.

Moving a a pace of 1.5 to 3 kilometers per day, the water is making its way down towards us in inner Bangkok. My best guess (based mostly on how I feel, not fact, mind you, because none of that exists) is that it will take 60 days to completely drain out to sea. (This is actually the government's estimate times two, because they really are that far off the mark.)

No one has a clue when/where/how much. The water comes silently, inexorably. But the good thing is that it'll surely pass. Finding much sense in the British WWII poster: Keep calm and carry on.

Preparations

2011-10-21T15:24:00.005+07:00

On Wednesday evening, we left Sukhumvit and headed to my parents' place on the other side of town. Not that it is safer or drier but it was too nerve wracking to stay and twiddle our thumbs, waiting for the flood and listening to conflicting news reports on the city's fate. Here, we stacked sand bags, filled buckets and bathtubs with water, and stocked up on necessities. Today, the sun is shining and all is dry but maybe it's the calm before the storm. Kept reading in editorials that it's not a a matter of if, but when, the flooding will occur. Feelings are mixed: we're bracing for the worst; others are fairly certain we will be sparred.

Thailand drowning

2011-10-10T23:05:00.005+07:00

Floods have inundated much of the nation, with waters moving down toward Bangkok. It's pretty frightening and people are starting to get nervous, leading to hoarding of bottle water, instant noodles, and canned foods. This morning Tesco on Rama I was a madhouse, with grim-looking shoppers filling carts with food and drinks. One man loaded up on alcohol (not a bad idea).

Mostly stocked up things we normally buy: diapers, UHT milk, formula, and cereal. Also got some jarred baby food even though N doesn't really eat them anymore. Don't know if we're going to stay put in Sukhumvit. No one can say if/when the deluge is expected to hit. Eeeagh... it's that feeling of impending doom for Bangkok (again).

Yeeech

2011-08-20T04:21:00.008+07:00

Rain, rain, rain...and with it, a most unwelcome visitor: cockroaches. Since we moved to our apartment, these harbingers of filth have multiplied in size. In 2006, they were little babies, easily squashed and subsequently flushed down the toilet with nary a second thought; in 2009, they grew to medium-sized suckers that scuttled over the floor, requiring more dexterity (and a rolled up newspaper) to squish; today, they are frighteningly big and capable of flight. And smart, menacing even.

So one of these, the mother of all roaches (or MoaR, a well deserved title), recently took up residence in one of the bathrooms and terrorized us for a couple weeks, darting under the shower stall late at night whenever someone would switch on the light in the room. The cat refused to get involved in its demise, sauntering out of the bathroom looking for something more interesting (and safe) to do.

One night the MoaR was hanging out by the faucet in the sink, and it crawled up M's arm when he turned on the water in the dark. Shrieks ensued, and the roach zipped back to its lair under the shower stall. M proceeded to spray the area with Baygon. A little while later, the roach was on its back, frantically kicking its legs in the air. Presuming it was on its death bed, M tossed it into the trash can, slammed the lid. The next day, I opened the lid to throw away a tissue and the MoaR was very much alive and attempted to escape immediately. Asked M to finish it off. Tentatively opening the lid, M peered in and the MoaR flew out. It managed to land on and scamper up M's arm again (poor man) before jumping into the sink where it got smashed by a magazine. Heart-pounding, we felt relieved the ordeal was over. Until the next one appeared.

This one hitched a ride on M's leg and made it outside the bathroom to the kitchen, where it is still at large. *Shudder*

Chatterbox

2011-08-15T11:38:00.009+07:00

N has picked up a lot of words lately, chatting non-stop. She's mostly coherent, but it sometimes takes awhile to figure out what she's saying. Interestingly, while we speak to her in English and Thai, she mostly speaks Thai. She also refers to herself as Sa. Some recent phrases:

Upon wanting to play with my phone: ษาทำได้ Mama ทำไม่ได้ [Sa can do it, Mama cannot]
To her Thomas trains: จูบกันนะ [Kiss each other, ok]
Wanting some iced tea: Tea ค่ะ
Waving to her stuffed animals: See you นะ bye bye
Climbing on the bed (since falling off and banging her head earlier): Mama ช่วยดูษาน้อยค่ะ [Mama, please watch me/make sure I don't fall]
Frustrated, trying to point out something that I couldn't see: Mama มองไม่เห็น [Mama cannot see]
Upon wanting to buy a book: Mama ตังค์อยู่ไหน? [Mama, where's the money?]
In her sleep and very often, while awake: ไม่ไม่! [No, no!]
Every so often: ทำไรเอ่ย? เสียงไรเอ่ย? นี่ไร? [What are you doing? What's that sound? What's this?]
Upon being carried in a precarious manner: Mama อุ้มดีดี [Mama, hold me properly]
Upon seeing a Buddha image with a bare torso: ไม่มี boobs นะ [Got no boobs]
Upon being asked who's the apple of Mama's eye: ษา [Sa] apple eye (while poking me in the eyes)

Mom's Day

2011-08-13T10:03:00.007+07:00

Yesterday was the Queen's birthday and Thai mother's day. Told N it was mother's day, and asked what she was going to do for me. I suggested she behave. And she said: "จะเกาหลังให้" ('gonna scratch your back'). Hmmm. I'll take that.

M was working and the nanny was off so I had N alone. Took her to the toy store and she headed straight for the Thomas trains and then to the kitchen play set. She stayed there for awhile, pretending to make soup while chatting away to herself.

When we left, she was good and didn't demand anything. I picked up some bubble solution and a couple shape and number puzzles that understandably, weren't very exciting for her but I let her get some Thomas trains from the egg vending machine. The very nice cashier offered to open the machine and let us pick the ones we wanted. It took awhile to choose but in the end, N was happy with little Percy and Toby wind-up trains, and a model of Cranky the crane.

Too smart

2011-08-08T22:42:00.015+07:00

Lately N has become argumentative and stubborn, preceding many words with 'ไม่' ('no') such as ไม่กิน, ไม่ชิม, ไม่นอน, ไม่อาบน้ำ, ไม่ไป..., testing her limits. Tonight she ran around for an hour after her usual bedtime, asking for more stories, playing with her Playmobile figures, and climbing on the sofa. After nagging and cajoling (and a bribe of animal crackers), she finally agrees to go to bed. (Sigh.) It's past 10pm. Tucked in, she looks at me and says (for the first): 'Love you.'

Paris

2011-07-21T10:25:00.015+07:00

Back from four days in Paris. It was a lovely break from the chaos of home, and I reveled in the time that was mine to squander, a near-forgotten luxury. (When I wasn't pining for baby, that is.) On my first day, Bastille Day, I got in pretty early and took the RER train into the city. It was chilly and grey; by mid-day, the sun was out and temperatures dropped. Yet I was still cold (I have been in Thailand too long).

After dropping my bag off at the small hotel near the arch, I saw some of the military parade down the Champs Elysees, with fighter jets zooming overhead. Then went to the Egyptian and Roman galleries in the Louvre, and walked around in the Carrousel de Louvre. I was pretty tired by mid-afternoon so I headed back for a nap. The room was tiny and fairly clean, but the hotel's pet friendly policy had me eying each stain on the carpet. Nevertheless, I had a good snooze.

That evening, I noshed on delicious yogurt and banana (labeled from Martinique, kind of far for a banana, no?) from the convenience store nearby. Then walked to Parc Monceau. Sat by the carousel for awhile, watching parents load toddlers and kids on the wooden rides. I was missing Nisa, and sending messages back and forth with Mai. The days seem so long without her: good for short trips but not so great during moments like these.

The next morning, I set out early for a walk. It was drizzling but not as cold as the previous day. Ended up at Pont Neuf but decided against going to Saint Chapelle and Notre Dame. Guess I just wanted to refresh my memory about the area from previous Paris visits. I haven't been following the news and was a bit sad to see La Samaritaine boarded up (it closed in 2005) as I had a nice meal at its rooftop cafe. Then went back to the subway and got off at Concorde. Vaguely recall driving by the obelisk (in 1993 or so) and wanted to take another look. So...yes, it was still there, amid some construction, glowing as the blinding sunlight reflected off its shaft. Kind of uneventful.

Feeling sheepish, I walked into the Tuileries garden nearby. Thanks to one of the Apps Mai loaded onto my phone, I located the Musee de l'Orangerie, a cute little museum dedicated to huge paintings of Monet's water lilies. The galleries were filled with Chinese tourists but once they left, a welcome solitude, augmented by the murals and diffused lighting, descended. Other paintings on display were by modern masters: Picasso, Gauguin, Cezanne, Rousseau, Modigliani...and others whose names I've forgotten. Very enjoyable at a snail's pace, without the ever present din of the Louvre.

Walked towards Madeline next, browsing among the shops. Got Nisa a pair of (somewhat pricey) Camper shoes and Mai a (slightly cheaper) coffee pot. Also indulged in six La Duree macaroons, unabashedly snacking on one as I walked back to the metro. Then headed to Les Olympiades, the last stop on the purple line, seeking a proper meal in Chinatown. I probably didn't hit the main stretch because I didn't find any cluster of restaurants or stores with that 'Chinatown' vibe (neon restaurant signs, elderly Asians loaded with grocery bags, curio stores...). Hmm. Ended up at a 'Chinese' place run by very nice Cambodians. Despite the mediocre fare, it was good to be in a more mellow residential neighborhood with an interesting mix of people.

Then it was back to the hotel for a nap before meeting up with Jen and her brood, who were renting an apartment on the next block. My last two days consisted of hanging out with Jen and her family and attending the two kids' baptism as her daughter's godmother. The latter was held in a floating church (on a barge) in a suburb; on the drive back to Paris, with me wedged between two car seats, we rear-ended another car driven by Jen and Raf's nephew. The tuckered out babies woke upon impact with piercing screams, jangling every one's nerves. Luckily the crash wasn't too bad. We were still able to rush back to the apartment so I could gather my stuff and grab a taxi to the airport. After these activity-packed days, the 11-hour flight allowed for breathing room, time to pause before diving back into hectic home life.

July already...

2011-07-01T09:50:00.007+07:00

Last blogged in Feb, and now the year's half over. Time is seriously zipping by, except when watching baby toss and turn, resisting sleep; or reading Green Eggs and Ham for the eighth time in a roll. I guess I should stop referring to baby as baby since she's a full fledged little person capable of many things: manipulation (ugh) and full-on expressions of love (awwwww).

Meant to fill out a baby log about all her milestones, but got too lazy. Plus there were so many, I lost track of when each and every tooth came in and the utterances of new words. As of today, at almost twenty months, she can string four words together, forming complete sentences (mostly in Thai); count up to ten in Thai and English; pick her own clothes; has 14 teeth; and is as willful as ever. Tooth-brushing is a chore, one of the day's most dreaded tasks. I have been bitten all too often - ouch! Potty training has commenced but has not progressed beyond sitting on the potty for more than a minute.

N likes television shows like In the Night Garden, Teletubbies, Sesame Street, and more recently, Thomas the Tank Engine and Barney. They are actually not as mind-numbing as I thought (or maybe I'm so brain dead, I don't notice). She's also into playing games on the iPad, expertly swiping her fingers on the screen, and can get extremely cranky when asked to stop. Thankfully, she is also into books, and we read every day, mostly in the car and before bed. Old favorites like Goodnight Moon and Hooper Humperdink, Not Him! have been retired, replaced with other Suess books and Where's the Green Sheep. She is starting to recognize colors and shapes, and can sing a bit, elongating words to a tune.

Regular outings consist of going to the aquarium and library. N's also a good traveler. We went to Singapore in May, and visited the zoo and botanic gardens. Not one fussy episode took place, but I had to carry her most of the time we were out and about.

Babyhood is such a fleeting moment; so brief, with momentous achievements and astronomical changes. Can understand why people have multiples, but for someone who used to hate babies, I am not entirely convinced I have to go through it again. Not in a hurry, anyway.

Library Day

2011-02-17T18:20:00.013+07:00

Spent a good part of the day at the Neilson Hayes Library. Happily found that it was one of the most baby-friendly places: ample space to toddle, changing table in the bathroom, safe high chairs in the cafe, and well-kept garden. Oh, and no one minding an excited, outspoken baby who had never seen so many books (or large papier mache frogs and bears) before: "OOOOH! OOOOH! BHOP [กบ]! BHOP! MEE [หมี]! BHOP!"

Turning One

2010-12-03T10:51:00.012+07:00

The year has zipped by. Baby turned one in November. An active tot, she spends almost every waking moment playing, learning, and discovering new things. In the process, she's running into walls, falling on her face, losing toenails, and sustaining other cringe-worthy injuries. But she's audacious; with nary a cry, she picks herself up and get on with her day (if only we were quite so fearless!).

Eight months

2010-06-24T10:18:00.007+07:00

Baby is almost eight months old, and while the exhaustion of nursing a newborn is abating, new challenges constantly arise, especially as she gains mobility and a bit of an attitude. As for the latter, yelling is the new crying. Sporadic bursts, often in protest, are not unusual. Sorry, neighbors. Inadvertent payback for your loud music. :I

Bkk burns

2010-05-19T14:02:00.005+07:00

Packed up a sleepy baby and headed to mom's to get away from central Bangkok, where piles of tires continue to burn, releasing plumes of black smoke and noxious fumes. We drove through dense clouds of smoke on the expressway from the smoldering debris below. Zero visibility. It was surreal and scary. Unsettling and sad. Something out of the movies. Replete with suspense - what next? How will it end?

Deadly days

2010-05-17T10:06:00.007+07:00

Fighting continues for a fourth day, and some city streets resemble a war zone. Broken bottles, burned tires and other debris litter the ground. Coils of razor wire adorn sidewalks and makeshift barricades. Rain falls periodically, helping quell plumes of smoke billowing from tires set ablaze. Tension continues to run high. We are a city in distress, scared and saddened.

International media reports dwell on the "illegitimacy" of this government; even though not democratically elected, the government assumed power under vote of parliament as did the previous two administrations. Most informed citizens believe Abhisit is doing the best he can under the circumstances. The government's approach appears methodical. Throughout these two months of demonstrations, it became clear that their intention has never been to dispel the protesters with force, and certainly not to kill ordinary citizens as the red shirt leaders have lamented on numerous occasions.

It is easy for such leaders to rouse support from and hide behind the premise that "we are poor, powerless, and non-violent." True, the majority of their followers fall into the former two categories but the movement is much more complex than class warfare. It is not as simple as "elite vs peasant" or "rich vs poor." Whomever is backing the reds has no real regard for the welfare of the poor other than using them as a power base for their own self-serving motives and business interests. And they definitely have no qualms about spreading hate and using violence to achieve such means. In a system rife with greed and corruption, this was bound to happen sooner or later.

The government has to end this movement before society can move forward. As the death toll mounts and the city smolders, it is a very tough lesson to learn. We can't pretend things can ever be the same as before. Unfortunately, meaningful social change takes time. But at least it begins now: first in our attitudes and then in our actions.

Songkran

2010-04-16T10:58:00.015+07:00

This year, another atypical Songkran: violent army-protester clashes followed by a queasy calm and some raucous celebrations on the part of the red shirts who continue to occupy Rajprasong. Anything goes, it seems. While the situation is potentially very frightening, it doesn't feel like we are in imminent danger. Planning our days around reds' impromptu marches and gatherings is becoming the norm.

Bangkokians' emotional states range from shoulder-shrugging imperviousness to nervousness, depression and indignation. Battered by the reds' browbeating tactics and irrational demands, the government continues its soft stance. The reluctance to further crack down on the crimson mob appears to be a combination of taking the moral high ground and not being entirely in control of the armed forces. The administration seems to hang on by a thread.

A multi-color group supporting the government has emerged. Anti-red (yellow) groups are mobilizing. Print media is rife with speculation about cracks in the military. As usual, the situation remains highly fluid; what happens next is any one's guess.

Five months old

2010-04-01T17:47:00.005+07:00

Little miss N continues to grow and change at an amazing pace, including developing quite a character. She keeps everyone highly amused.

Among people she knows, she's loud: chatty and opinionated, and prone to giggling fits. She is really into certain toys and tends to play pretty rough, smashing rattles onto hard surfaces, tossing teethers aside, and flailing her arms. She also has a shy side and it takes her awhile to warm up to strangers.

She can play quietly by herself for longer stretches of time and managed to sleep through the night once. Yay! Baby's growing up. Next month: solid food, play group, and (hopefully) more sleep for all.

Hmmm

2010-03-15T13:38:00.015+07:00

Holed up at home for the second day, wondering if anything will come of the latest demonstrations in Bangkok. Another D-Day, another ultimatum, another day of reckoning come and gone. So far, causing traffic snarls seems to be the worst outcome of the reds' "siege" of the city.

The government seems to have the upper hand in this stand-off, allowing the movement of demonstrators, holding off on declaring a state of emergency, and staying put. The red shirt leaders are getting frustrated and/or desperate, announcing antics such as collecting protesters' blood to hurl at Government House and other symbolic buildings. For real?

Milestones

2010-03-03T19:41:00.010+07:00

A lot of exciting happenings in the past two weeks leading up to Nisa's 4-month b-day. First, she can sit up in the Bumbo without leaning too much to one side. She can hold her head upright while on her stomach. And finally, she can flip over and back!

She's taken to staring at people, assessing them. Her crazy hair continues to stick straight up.

She's in the 75th percentile, weight-wise, and has developed multiple folds everywhere. Fatty!

Don't touch me

2010-02-19T18:48:00.004+07:00

Nisa has suddenly become sensitive to unfamiliar faces. She won't let anyone she doesn't recognize hold her. Actually, strangers can't even look at or greet her without her scrunching up her face in preparation for a scream. Hmmm... It's probably just a phase but I don't know whether to laugh or worry.

Babyhood

2010-02-11T11:07:00.016+07:00

No longer a newborn. In three months, Nisa's transformation has been astounding. She eats a ton and has more than doubled her birth weight. Her character is emerging - she smiles, coos, giggles and yells. She loves to be in motion. The automatic swing saved our sanity during her fussy phase, and she kicks her legs while being held, telling you to get a move on. Sometimes she's really bossy.

She can hold a conversation, chatting away: goo, ahhh, ah-ga, beah! So far, my favorite Nisaism is MEH. Occasionally, she emits high pitch screams (*cringe*). She also laughs hysterically, overwhelming herself to the point of crying. I don't know what that means.

She listens quietly when we read Goodnight Moon and seems to appreciate my terrible singing (perhaps she's really polite). She is starting to drool and appears irritated with her bottom gum. She may be teething? Everything goes into her mouth now, especially her fingers. She hasn't figured out which one she likes best.

She's growing up fast. Too fast!

RIP, Zach

2010-02-08T15:25:00.018+07:00

Zachary passed away yesterday evening from kidney failure. After not being able to walk for several days, he slipped into a coma on Saturday night. By then, I felt he was already gone. His eyes were vacant and glazed over. He barely moved yet his breath was steady, his mid-section rhythmically pulsed up and down. Just the day before, the vet declared him to be in non-critical condition based on his blood test results. Although he was immobile, he was alert, responding to our calls. At one point, a glimmer of his old self emerged as he vigorously rubbed his gums on the wall.

He took a turn for the worse that night and Mai took him back to the vet in the morning. He was given an IV drip and placed under a heat lamp. We decided to leave him at the vet’s for treatment. Mai went back at 6pm. He felt that Zach was somehow calling for him. When he got there, Zach’s condition had not improved and he’d had two seizures. He was still glassy-eyed but he twitched in response to Mai’s voice telling him everything was going to be ok. Mai then called me and asked what we should do. We decided to keep Zach there overnight. Not even a minute later, Mai called again, clearly distraught. Zach was gone, he said, adding, “He was waiting for me.”

Zach loved Mai best and it seemed fitting, more than a coincidence.

I was feeding the baby, trying to remain calm. But I lost it, tears welling up and nose dripping. I wiped my face on my sleeve. Nisa started screaming while I was still on the phone; when I hung up, I wished I could wail as loudly too, but instead shushed her quietly, pleading for her to stop.

Zach was in a black garbage bag when I picked him up at the vet this morning. The vet, a slight man in a surgical mask, seemed almost apologetic, explaining that he thought Zach was ok the other night. I nodded, thanked him and left, the antiseptic scent of the office contrasting drastically with the smells of exhaust, food, and human sweat on the street.

I headed to Wat Klong Toey Nai in the heart of the Klong Toey community, a densely settled area comprised of slums, a bustling market, a large port, warehouses and industrial complexes. The temple was located at the end of a narrow lane, next to a school, soft drink distribution center and Shell plant of some sort. Huge rounded oil storage facilities dominated the landscape.

At the temple, I was directed to the crematorium built specifically for animals. One of the two ovens was open, flames leaping within. Two characters, one fat and one thin, manned the operation. The thin one matter of factly asked what I had: a cat? Persian, right? Did I want a monk to chant the final rites? I said no to the latter and asked the fat one about the procedure. He gruffly directed me to dilapidated signage: 1,500 baht for the cost of maintaining the oven, the fuel and the gas. Larger animals over 20 kilos 2,000 baht. Pay the caretakers a gratuity if you wish, but we will not solicit a tip. If you encounter any extra charges, contact the abbot. Do you want a coffin for your dog or cat - Call Uncle Kai at XX-XXX-XXXX. For ashes spread in the sea, 300 baht for the boat fee.

I paid the fat guy 1,500 baht, thankful I had enough cash in my wallet. I looked at the gut bulging out of his shirt and his bulbous cauliflower nose while he wrote me a receipt, wishing I could give my cat a nicer farewell.

In the meantime, the thin guy took my bag. He opened it and placed Zach on a wooden board. This was the first time I had seen Zach’s stiff, lifeless body. He was a mass of ruffled fur. His face was scrunched up and his body was cold. I placed a paper flower on his back, patted his rump to somehow reassure him, and silently said goodbye. Bye, Zach. See you on the other side, my boy. The thin man closed the furnace door. I felt numb, like I was having an out of body experience, watching myself stand there. I looked up at the exhaust pipe, heat waves blurring the sky.

The thin man said I was early when I returned in an hour. The fat guy said to have a seat and get out of the sun. I went to sit in the shade and watched a monk chant prayers for a couple with a tan fluffy dog lying beside them. When the monk was done, the thin man took the dog and put him in the other oven. The fat caretaker asked if they wanted the ashes back. The man said no, please scatter the ashes in the water. He paid the extra fee and the couple left in a hurry.

While I waited, the monk lit up a cigarette. The thin man poured Zach’s ashes onto a tray and was tossing them, separating bone fragment from ash. Powder poofed out in a cloud each time the ashes settled back onto the tray and the man turned away so as not to inhale the dust. When he was done, he bagged the remaining pieces in a piece of muslin. He handed them to me in a green plastic bag and I held the warm ashes in my hands and got into the car, still feeling as if the whole experience was surreal.

I thought of Zach in his prime and wanted to cry so I put his remains beside me and distracted myself with the activity outside. Workers from the oil plant were eating lunch. I vaguely thought about making mushroom broth when I got home. I automatically steadied the bag as the car jarred, as if Zach was actually sitting beside me. Ashes leaked onto the seat and I brushed them off, wondering if that was an appropriate thing to do.

When I got home, I took Zach’s remains out of the plastic bag and put them in a paper box that previously held a wedding gift. The baby was asleep. I mechanically ate half a sandwich. I felt nothing until I started to write this entry, and the tears flow. Rest in peace, Zachary. Thank you for coming into our lives. We miss you tremendously.

Hiatus, explained

2009-12-19T08:34:00.004+07:00

So much for resolving to be a better blogger in '09! The rest of the year flew by and now, we are a family of three. Caring for an infant is probably one of the most difficult tasks, especially trying to figure out the reason behind the fussing and increasingly urgent (and heart-rending) wails. There are, however, moments that make up for the exhaustion and chronic anxiety. This is one of them (our daughter at 6 weeks):

Troubled

2009-04-21T19:04:00.012+07:00

Didn't have much of a Songkran this year, and mostly stayed home to avoid clashes between anti-government "red-shirt" protesters and army troops at different points in the city. Unlike before, the situation feels more dangerous. As we teeter on anarchy, both sides claim to be proponents and protectors of democracy.

After protests subsided, an ominous silence lingered, only to be disrupted by an assassination attempt on a prominent "yellow-shirt" leader. The state of emergency has yet to be lifted, and there are accusations of unknown third parties behind some of the violence. At this point, things are so fluid that no one knows what will happen next.

On the bright side, we ventured out for dinner one evening, and the adjacent soi was filled with new year revelers having a blast, splashing water everywhere. It was a breezy night, and locusts buzzed noisily in the trees. On the micro-level, life goes on...

Bang Kra Jao

2009-02-17T11:14:00.009+07:00

On a whim, my friend J and I set off for Bang Kra Jao, a relatively undeveloped island not far from the city. There isn't much info on BKJ on the web and I only learned about it a couple years ago, when I spotted the vast green patch within the meandering Chao Phraya from atop a high-rise building.

All we knew was that, to get to this mysterious place, we had to take a boat ride from the municipal pier next to the huge Klong Toey port. When we walked down to the pier, a no-frills hunk of concrete, the only option was a long-tailed boat with a bored-looking operator. He agreed to take us to BKJ for 30 baht. Expecting a half-hour ride, J and I looked at each other quizzically when the boat arrived on the opposite shore about a minute later.

The boatman good naturedly confirmed that this was indeed BKJ (which is actually in Samut Prakarn province, an hour or so drive from the city) and we climbed on to a wooden pier, emerging into another world. We walked into the glaring sunlight down a paved road flanked with overgrown scrub constantly rustling from alighting birds and scurrying stray dogs. Being true urbanites, we delighted (a bit embarrassingly) in the bird calls, expanses of greenery, and huge trees that provided much needed shade.

We soon wandered onto a raised concrete path that snaked through the dank "jungle." Here, the trees provided almost complete shade and the still, shallow waters below were filled with small fish and amphibians. The path took us past the front door of small homes; a wood and corrugated metal shack that sold drinks, cigarettes, and other sundries; and a public park bustling with weekend activity.

We then decided to catch motorcycle taxis to the market. The 6-kilometer ride into the more inhabited parts of the island was great fun, with breezes constantly whipping my hair in every direction. The market boasted lots of friendly vendors with local fruits and vegetables that we never see in Bangkok. We bought some of this produce and snacked on glutenous indian corn, and then caught a song taew back to the pier.

BKJ was a refreshing change from the concrete, pollution, and aggressive people prevalent on the other side of the river. Its highlight was, without a doubt, almost instant immersion into a gentler, more carefree life commonly associated with the more rural provinces.

Sabai Sabai

2009-02-11T14:27:00.014+07:00

Been feeling a bit boxed in lately so last Saturday, we got into the car and headed east towards the coast of the Gulf of Thailand (after circling around in the city, trying to find the entrance to the Motorway; my fault mostly- I am a terrible navigator).

The roads were surprisingly good, which says a lot about how often we embark on road trips (never!). From the Motorway, we got onto Highway 344 (Ban Bung-Klang) towards Chantaburi. After 2 hours, we opted for Rayong at the split, ending up on a pretty stretch of road flanked by rubber plantations, palms, and ubiquitous stalls selling local specialties like coconuts, sweet snacks, and roasted chicken.

The town was pretty mellow. Its extensive concrete boardwalk was lined with umbrellas, deck chairs, and makeshift seafood restaurants, but there was hardly anyone about. As the sun set, we walked on the main stretch of beach, watching families playing football, flying kites, and wading into the placid surf. Very sabai sabai. (Aptly, we stayed at a low key little place called Baan Sabai Sabai.)

The beach wasn't bad - Mai thought it was nicer than Cha-Am or Huahin - but there was a lot of trash, including light bulbs, toothbrushes, and plastic ribbons from garlands, strewed on the sand. It's easy to see why people pass through Rayong simply to catch the ferry to Ko Samet, but it's a shame the municipality isn't cleaning up public areas on the mainland.

As it got dark, a couple of the beachside eateries began blaring folk songs, often featuring the incessant tinkling of the onomatopoetic 'ching chap' cymbals. After dinner by the water, we changed our minds about visiting the nearby market and called it a night.

The next morning, we stopped in Pattaya for lunch and then hit the clothing outlet before driving home. Next time we'll take the other prong of Highway 344: Chantaburi.

'09 Resolutions

2009-01-28T11:05:00.010+07:00

January wasn't a particularly good month. Got wrapped up in work, bills, vague worries about the future... Felt like I largely operated on auto-pilot, feeling tired without doing anything. And now the month is almost over.

Anyway. As it's lunar new year, I guess it's not too late to think about resolutions for '09. Three things on the to-do list (which sounds a lot like last year's): practice more yoga, learn meditation (stay in the present!), and travel to more places in Thailand, including the northeast. We'll also plan to go up to CM, including a drive up Doi Suthep, past the temple, to source delicious locally grown and roasted coffee. Also wouldn't mind heading back to Trang and its neighboring provinces.

Happy Holidays!

2008-12-27T10:35:00.005+07:00

(Taken at Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai, 12/07; this year we stay in Bangkok, which is very quiet at the moment...)

Dinner dash

2008-11-30T08:41:00.013+07:00

Went out to dinner last night, despite advice (well, an order from dad) to stay home as red-shirted government supporters were supposedly streaming into the city to battle yellow-clad anti-government protesters.

In central Bangkok, it was business as usual. At Emporium, the sparkly Xmas decorations are up and people sat around outside, enjoying the rare, and very slight, chill in the air. It was almost festive, but I kept thinking that maybe we should have stayed home.

Despite the company, including a good-humored Singaporean friend based in Shanghai, who was supposed to go to Bhutan and is essentially stranded here, we didn't linger. Grabbed a few grocery items and headed back around nine. Turns out, my dad was wrong.

Nervous, but ok.

2008-11-27T08:48:00.016+07:00

Coup rumors have been flying today. Anti-government protesters have stormed the airports, forcing the cancellation of all flights. While I am no proponent of the current administration, this is ridiculous. The political situation has become a tragicomedy of sorts, underpinned by greed, ego, and delusion.

Military action is absent while defiance and bravado spews from the leaders of the opposing side. With each day, there's less semblance of law and order. Bombings in key protests sites are becoming part of "life as usual."

Negotiations are supposedly in the works, but I doubt that sides with vastly opposing agendas can see eye to eye. No one knows how (or when) it will end, but we feel that this time, it's going to be pretty damn scary.

In Hanoi, again

2008-11-06T15:11:00.027+07:00

Hanoi, Hanoi...back on its frenetic streets. Things are as busy as ever. A haze perennially shrouds the city, the number of touts has increased, and no one, from street vendor to supermarket cashier, lets you off if you pay with a grubby banknote (I don't think we encountered this last time?).

Having seen many of the city's sights, we escaped the chaos and clamor (as well as the rest of the family- hehe) by ducking into courtyard cafes, funky galleries, and a hidden museum in the Old Quarter, mostly around Hang Be and Hang Bac.

We also made it out to Halong Bay and the intriguing grottoes of Ninh Binh. Despite the throngs of tourist boats in the bay, a sort of languidness lingered, perhaps because of the thick mist that envelops the isles.

On the whole, travel in Vietnam is tiring and it never feels like a holiday; although it's an interesting enough place with good veg fare and excellent coffee, I'm always glad to go home.

ปีศาจแมว

2008-11-04T12:10:00.005+07:00

Thank you, Jen and Raphael, for the belated Halloween present.

A Thai Halloween

2008-11-01T11:13:00.003+07:00

I'm regularly contributing to Matador, an online travel magazine. Here's the latest piece on spirits, shrines, and sinners in the Big Mango.

Happy Halloween!

Clackety clack

2008-10-02T15:08:00.015+07:00

Political chaos continues, with a consistent furling of tension, and a subsequent calm. Yet life goes on, and some fun has even emerged from the mess via the hand slapper/clapper (mue top).

Ranging from 10 to 25 baht depending on size, these colorful plastic devices (my favorite ones are white, red, and blue) have been used to heckle politicians, indicate dissent, and in a huge group, express solidarity. The latter is especially apparent at Government House, where PAD protesters have camped since August, and during protests in front of the British Embassy and other significant venues.

Mue top now symbolizes the anti-government movement, and can be found in a range of merchandise, from t-shirts to earrings. The opposing, pro-government side has put out their own version, the foot clapper, but somehow, that doesn't seem as effective.

Lone Sept. Post

2008-09-25T21:36:00.016+07:00

Argh. The month has flown by! Sorry for the lack of posts. My excuse is that I've been busy writing other things, resurrecting my laptop (hard drive died), and basically running all over the city doing stuff (vague, I know!).

One fun thing we did recently was to join my parents on their annual August Hong Kong trip, where the primary motivation has always been to procure dozens of tins of Wing Wah mooncakes for distribution to people back home.

That type of food obsession sums up the trip as much of the time was spent with old friends eating exceptional meals, including a 12-course veg lunch at the Chi Lin Nunnery (MTR: Diamond Hill station, Kowloon). I never ate so many different varieties of fungi in one sitting before.

Besides the food, the nunnery is worth a mention. It's a grouping of new structures built in the Tang Dynasty style, and the meticulousness of the buildings are reminiscent of temples we saw in Japan. Every piece of wood has been assembled without nails, with dowels and brackets holding them neatly together like a puzzle.

The gardens are just as impressive; each artfully shaped rock carefully sits among trees with gnarled limbs sprouting clusters of needles in varying hues of green. Very Zen, and a great counterbalance to the frenzied pace on the streets.

In general, I like Hong Kong. Many sights trigger a sense of nostalgia, whether they are things I recall as a kid on numerous visits, or places I hear about where my grandparents yum cha-ed, frequented or lived. Those were the days. :)

Tough

2008-08-26T18:07:00.015+07:00

PAD protesters have stormed and occupied Government House premises. The government continues to hold on, with no sign of compromise. At this chaotic moment, it's hard to determine if the actions of both sides are right or wrong.

We keep hearing rumors that the police are going to disperse the mob, but so far, no such action has been taken. With tensions rising each passing day, violent clashes are inevitable. It's unlikely a coup will take place though, given the expressed disinvolvement of the military.

Since the seizure, the radio has been on all day, every day; the continuous shouting and rallying are nerve-wracking. The current regime has to get out; I don't see any other outcome as there are many deep-seated, long-standing grievances that brought us to this point.

For the latest news and lots of in-depth analysis, check out this blog.

Borobudur

2008-07-17T12:17:00.010+07:00

Went to Yogyakarta for the long weekend with my pal Bee awhile ago, but haven't gotten around to finishing and posting the entry until today. My impressions of Yogya are good: friendly faces, interesting sites, and decent massages (tho not as excruciatingly satisfying as Thai ones).

Borobudur was easily the most memorable place. We got there at 4:30am, with the initial intent of avoiding crowds; in retrospect, the early hour made a huge difference to the overall experience.

The grounds were scantily lit, and we stumbled around a bit, eventually heading towards the silhouette of the massive stupa that crowns the monument. A pre-dawn chill lingered in the dewy air, a sensation I'd sooner associate with Boston in the late spring than with Southeast Asia in July.

Armed with pocket flashlights, we gingerly climbed to the top of the multi-tiered structure. It was slightly disconcerting. Shadowy figures circled the various levels, and an occasional camera flash blasted the area with light.

At the top, we sat quietly, anticipating sunrise.

As first light broke, the magnitude of the temple was dramatically revealed. In an instant, we found ourselves surrounded by dozens of small latticed stupas and life-sized Buddha images, some with heads and some without.

Below, a wispy mist weaved among the bucolic surroundings. In the distance, a smoldering volcano emerged, tinged with the fiery light of the rising sun.

It was magical, and a little bit surreal.

As if on cue, the crowing of village roosters pierced the silence. Yet somehow, a sense of serenity, a quietly powerful force, remained.

Kitchen Chemistry

2008-07-10T20:57:00.003+07:00

In these trying times...we make ginger beer.

Here we go again...

2008-06-20T11:06:00.011+07:00

On both sides of Rajdamnern Avenue, angry voices blare from speakers hoisted onto the back of pickup trucks, mobilizing protesters. The area is teeming with policemen, brightly-colored banners, and yellow-clad PAD supporters, among other protest groups.

At 1pm, the PAD demonstration moves from Makkhawan Bridge to the Government House. It's not clear whether they plan for a "seige" of the building, as this morning's headlines proclaim. Being in the midst of the activity, it's obvious the political impasse approaches its boiling point, with no indication how the afternoon's event will turn out. The papers are labeling it a "showdown" and "D-Day."

Are we headed for street clashes and tear gas? A larger uprising? Another coup? Not sure. One thing is certain: prolonged violence will trigger military intervention, bringing tanks back on Bangkok streets. And it will certainly pull an already deeply-polarized society further apart.

It's like 2006 all over again.

Vendors, civil servants, and students are noticeably missing from the chaotic scene. Schools and government offices have announced their closure yesterday in anticipation of PAD's mobile rally. Banks and businesses in the area have also closed for the day, metal grills drawn tightly over their doors.

Waiting to see what happens. Thirty minutes to go.

Samosas and Sundaes

2008-06-08T18:17:00.011+07:00

On Saturday, we hopped on the MRT and caught a taxi through congested Chinatown to check out the India Emporium mall in Pahurat (Little India). It turned out to be somewhat dull, with shops selling flowery garb, textiles, and gaudy trinkets. There was, however, a magician soliciting volunteers to be locked in a wooden chest, and a sizable crowd of both Sikhs and Thais gathered for the show.

The multi-storied Sikh temple (gurdwara) next door, with its sparkling gold domes and stoic caretakers, was more interesting. As was the piquant aroma of deep-fried snacks that led us to excellent 7-baht samosas and not-so-delectable soggy tofu.

Wandering through alleys packed with everything from okra and ghee to statues of deities and Bollywood VCDs, I had flashbacks of Delhi. Strains of Indian music wafted in the background while we browsed through dusty, cluttered shops no larger than office cubicles. Sellers were much more mellow than those in India, but it was getting uncomfortably hot.

Having our fill of Pahurat, we caught a tuk tuk back to the subway. And upon returning to Asok, topped off the sweltering afternoon with sundaes at McDonald's. Basking in the air conditioning and surrounded by corporate monotony, it seemed worlds apart.

Wistful

2008-06-04T11:25:00.007+07:00

Today I wish I were in Trang, instead of dismal Bangkok.

Thing

2008-06-01T09:44:00.012+07:00

While haphazardly appearing throughout the apartment, it has an affinity for terrycloth floor coverings.

Blase

2008-05-30T19:22:00.008+07:00

I need a new model.

On an unrelated note, Miss Maudie is turning 10! Feel free to mail gifts of Pounce and catnip in a timely manner.

Rotund

2008-05-26T00:53:00.004+07:00

My mom went to Holland and all I got was Gouda.

Poser

2008-05-23T12:11:00.002+07:00

Bleak

2008-05-23T12:03:00.002+07:00

Taken in Nana, near where we live.

Sprawl

2008-05-23T12:00:00.005+07:00

If it wasn't for the house next door, we'd be boxed in.

Indignant

2008-05-05T19:41:00.004+07:00

The cat always has a reason to be angry.

New Toy

2008-04-25T21:53:00.017+07:00

Sorry for the recent lack of posts. I'm been writing a lot of other stuff lately and haven't had the energy to blog. We're trying to learn how to take better pictures so will be posting more pics. :)

Mini-Maud

2008-04-14T14:39:00.002+07:00

(Click image to enlarge)

Green Bangkok

2008-03-30T11:06:00.028+07:00

After slogging away on business and real estate pieces, I've made a foray into travel writing with the Green Guide to Bangkok on thetravelersnotebook.com, a US-based travel blog. It was fun compiling the info, but given the limited word count, I left out a bunch of other veg and organic places to eat. Maybe I'll post that here later.

Trang

2008-03-25T10:36:00.007+07:00

Sorry for the recent lack of posts. Got sidetracked by a lot of things but we took a breather last weekend, heading to the province of Trang on the Andaman Sea.

An hour+ flight from Bangkok, Trang is completely quiet, pristine, and low-key, compared to Phuket or Samui. The relatively tranquil sea is dotted with small islands, many boasting expansive coral reefs, beaches, and craggy cliffs (where locals source swallow's nests).

On the first island visited, we ventured into the Morakot Cave. Led by a guide, we bobbled for about eighty meters in complete darkness until we reached an opening into a lagoon and white sand beach completely surrounded by cliffs. Pretty amazing but slightly scary as we had to dive under the cave roof to get out as the tide was rising.

Also snorkeled among the coral reefs off Koh Kradan and Koh Hai, basked in the sun, and walked on the beaches. It was a fantastic time, and even though we were only there for three days, we missed it upon returning to the urban sprawl of Bangkok.

Stray Haven

2008-03-16T22:36:00.006+07:00

Without a car, it takes up to three modes of alternative transport (BTS, taxi, and motorcycle taxi) to get to and from Soi Cats and Dogs (SCAD) in sub-soi 42 of Soi Pridi in Prakanong (Sukhumvit 71), but it's definitely a worthwhile trip, especially for those contemplating adoption of a former street animal.

I first visited SCAD, to research and write an article on the organization, when they relocated to this house last fall. At the time, the cats just moved in and the dogs had yet to be relocated from foster homes and other facilities. SCAD had been in and out of financial difficulties but with several sizable donations, new revenue sources (including a thrift store on the premises), and this adoption center, things were looking up.
Now, they've added a small cafe on the patio and the animals seem to have settled in as they wait for more permanent homes. Many happy-looking dogs scampered over to greet me in a closed, shady yard, while curious cats peered out from their perches in the cat room. The latter boasts an ingenious Cat Transport System (or CTS, after the BTS), an open-air tunnel that allows the animals to move freely between the room and an enclosure within the garden.

There's something special about street animals. Many have suffered terrible injuries, both intentional and accidental, at the hands of humans. And as they regain health, many acquire a sort of wisdom. Perhaps it's because they forgive unconditionally (well, dogs at least), exhibiting a "human" quality that few people can actually achieve.

(Photos from SCAD)

Less is more

2008-03-10T12:10:00.006+07:00

Every so often, this blog undergoes some sort of drastic layout change, usually when something tedious, and often more pressing, has to be done. Got bored of the 'Scribe' template and opted for something less cluttered...

Saraburi visit

2008-02-02T11:50:00.001+07:00

Yup, we got a new toy and Mai's been shooting and editing quite a bit. Here's the first video clip he did of the annual (extended) family trip to visit my grandparents' grave site in Saraburi, Thailand.

u read the blog, now watch the movie

2008-01-30T00:21:00.000+07:00

Chinatown

2008-01-28T22:29:00.004+07:00

A walk in Bangkok’s Chinatown evoked memories of my Chinese immigrant grandparents. They lived in a tall, skinny shophouse off Yaowarat, the area’s main thoroughfare. The first and second floors housed the administration side of my grandfather’s business and the top floor was where they lived.

Also, hidden from the street level, a wonderfully lush garden bloomed on the roof terrace of this vintage structure, thanks to my industrious grandmother’s very green thumb.

Since both grandparents passed away in the 1990s, I have seldom set foot in this part of town, but we went back for a visit yesterday evening. Not much has changed. Well, there is a Tesco Lotus on a side road and a pizza delivery place but in essence, it feels the same.

As always, trade bustles in the gold shops and on the street, especially as the lunar New Year approaches. The narrow back lanes of Sampheng are just as dark and cluttered as before. And the familiar smells of roasted chestnuts, wonton noodle soup, and dried scallops periodically hit us as we meandered down the street, avoiding puddles of waste water and fresh garbage that had been tossed on the sidewalk.

Street art

2008-01-12T15:52:00.001+07:00

Spent a couple nights in Hong Kong, hanging out with Jen (and her many rellies) and Raphael. Got a bit malled-out so we walked around, getting a feel for the various neighborhoods. Snapped some pics of fun street art in the Mid-levels, mostly by the same artist.

Amphawa

2008-01-07T23:05:00.002+07:00

Jen and Raf were in town, and requested an "authentic" Thai market experience (no surprise, after going to Chatuchak!). After scant research, we headed to an evening floating market in Amphawa district, Samut Songkhram.

It was sort of authentic in that it had a very local, haphazard feel to it. And it was a completely sensory experience, not recommended for those susceptible to vertigo or agoraphobia.

There were loads of interesting food and other product stalls, including those on boats. And very few non-Asian faces amongst the thousands of visitors vying for space on canal banks to observe the floating market, buy things, and board long-tailed boats chartered for late evening fire fly viewing by the Mae Klong River.

At this rate of activity, Amphawa is on the verge of becoming overrated. Homestays are cropping up everywhere, especially in vintage shophouses lining the banks of the small canals off the main river.

There is insufficient infrastructure to support the crowd. Railing-less banks and packed bridges are accidents waiting to happen. Also, the air is increasingly infused with noise and fumes from tour boats' diesel engines.

With a more sustainable management plan, Amphawa could be quite nice. It boasts a charming, retro sentiment that some businesses have captured (or retained) beautifully. But too many visitors are encouraging all sorts of new ventures, destroying the traditionally laid-back environment of life on the river banks.

Jan First

2008-01-01T18:32:00.000+07:00

The city's relatively quiet today. Road traffic is light, but many have come to the Phra Phrom (Brahma) shrine at Erawan to make merit, hoping a divine force will heed prayers and grant wishes. One sight that dates this photo is the fact that many have donned pink, the King's auspicious color, for the new year.

All lit up

2007-12-26T11:16:00.001+07:00

The city has been decked out since November. But the Visa tree failed to make an appearance this year. Boooo! What's Xmas without the stunning monument dedicated to spending (on credit)?!

Here's a pic of a gigantic, corporate sponsor-less tree instead.

Safe, happy holidays to all!

Crapshoot in '08

2007-12-19T11:16:00.000+07:00

As we enter the final week of campaigning, the feeling that the nation is in a hapless political situation looms. Logic (!) dictates that People's Power Party (PPP) will probably win, and Samak will be PM. Ugh!

In such case, we should turn to astrologers to make us feel better. The word is that one fortune teller predicted Samak will not be PM (he'll be number 2 all his life), and that Abisith will be PM for a "short time." Also, another said "tanks will roll back into the city during mid-year." Nice.

As for Thaksin, his chances of returning as "very small even if PPP gets elected" and "his fate will be akin to that of Saddam Hussein...". No comment. :P

Voting drunk

2007-12-17T14:45:00.001+07:00

As seen in Chiang Mai during advance balloting over the weekend...

Cats of Siam, Part 2

2007-12-10T10:55:00.003+07:00

To continue on the topic of the last post, we also ventured to the outskirts of Bangkok to check out an unusual attraction, the Royal Cat Park. Located off the Pin Klao-Nakhon Chaisi Highway close to Salaya, the open-aired buildings house rare Khao Manee ("White Jewel") cats. The place is more cat sanctuary than park, but there is an open yard in the back for the cats to romp amongst the tall grass and banana trees.

The Khao Manee has long been associated with royalty, and cannot be bred commercially nor sold (at least not in Thailand). They were a favourite of King Rama V, and the all the cats are of royal lineage. The breed is not well-known outside of the country, and I am not sure if it is recognized by international cat breed governing bodies.

Anyway, the Khao Manee is distinguished by its pure white coat, eyes of two different colors (one green, one blue; one yellow, one green, etc.), and pink nose. In the US, white cats with odd-coloured or blue eyes possess a deafness trait, but these do not.

The Royal Cat Park also featured four of the remaining five Siamese breeds, including the Supalak or Thong Daeng (or Burmese, seal point with a coppery-coloured coat); Nilrat or Konja (pure black); Wichien Mas (seal point with a cream-coloured coat and blue eyes); and Si Sawat or Korat (dark grey; pictured on the right).

The only breed not present was the Gao Taem ("Nine Spots"), the one most closely related to the common house cat. All are associated with luck, wealth, and general good fortune. These cats are lithe and handsome, and they seem, compared to our two, quite intelligent. :P

Back to the godly cats. There was also a curious, white Persian-Khao Manee mix that was the sole offspring of this unusual combo. It had the long Persian coat and grumpy-looking expression, but with the odd-coloured eyes and pink nose. So cute!

Cat overload! We were on the verge of being obsessed (even Mai, who won't admit it), but resisted bringing another critter home. Apart from the Khao Manee, the others are for sale. I rather liked the Supalak kitten (below), but Miss Maudie would be extremely upset, and cuteness aside, I can't deal with more bossy meowing, litter to scoop, and hair in my food.

Cats of Siam, Part 1

2007-12-09T17:35:00.000+07:00

I recently picked up a book (The Legend of the Siamese Cat by Martin Clutterbuck) that describes the Tamra Maew, a centuries-old collection of Siamese cat poems and drawings. It's quite a fun read, and explains a lot about cats in traditional culture and folklore.

Not only do the poems describes beliefs and superstitions surrounding each breed, they classify indigenous felines by their coloring.

We did a bit of cat watching over the weekend, first wandering onto the grounds of Wat Pathumwan, a small temple sandwiched between two malls. Despite signs stating not to abandon cats and dogs on the grounds, several friendly cats approached immediately, looking for food. Even in one of the busiest commercial areas in the city, the cats appeared healthy, well-fed, and oblivious to the commotion outside temple walls.

The Tamra Maew contains several verses that refer to crooked tails as signs of evil, so these cats be best left alone or released at the temple. That explains why most of the cats we encountered had a kinked, stumpy tail. Then again, this could be purely coincidental and simply part of the street cat gene pool.

Other passages in the Tamra Maew warn of the bad fortune surrounding cats with tiger stripes with a "voice like a ghost shriek, calling the land to destruction" and those with a "white body, the eyes like chewed betel as if applied with blood." There are six "bad" breeds in total.

On the flip side, the poems tout seventeen "good" breeds, that "should be sought out and bred, for honour, rank, good health, riches increase." This includes the six Thai breeds, including the royal Khao Manee, that remain in existence today.

It didn't occur to me that there were so many cat breeds from Thailand. I find the poems really interesting, but I like cats so...(stop yawning!). Stay tuned for Part 2, the pedigrees.

80th Birthday

2007-12-05T11:57:00.000+07:00

One striking aspect of life in Thailand is the deep-seated reverence for H.M. the King. This is probably the only thing Thais from all walks of life have in common.

As the King turns 80 today, celebrations abound for the world's longest-reigning and by far, the most loved monarch. Yellow-clad citizens flock to Ratanakosin (the above photo is of the marquee at Rajdamnoen boxing stadium) for a glimpse of the motorcade. Some are overwhelmed with emotion. Fireworks, special events and exhibits will continue for several days.

The King has always been a force above all else. His prestige has been maintained by the virtue of his persona, including his preference for living simply and his exercise of authority to ease political crises, when necessary.

Sunflowers in Lopburi

2007-11-26T09:14:00.001+07:00

Dozens of Lopburi sunflower fields are abloom, making for a nice day trip from Bangkok with a friend and her two little kids. For 5 baht per adult (kids are admitted free of charge), a romp in the field comprised good value fun. And there were lots of photo ops too!

The Grinch that Stole Loy Krathong

2007-11-24T10:13:00.001+07:00

Just when I started to miss Tofurkey (remember that tofu turkey?) day in the US, Loy Krathong rolls around, officially kicking off the festive season. X-mas decorations have already cropped up around shopping malls, and I've been hearing carols at work since July.

I have no pics of krathongs to offer, since I have no intention of floating one myself, and didn't want to annoy the krathong seller in Asoke by snapping photos without purchasing anything. The idea is nice and all, and it's fun for kids, but I'm over it. And the only water around here is the infamously malodorous klong that certainly does not need more banana tree parts rotting in the water. Yes, it's better than styrofoam, but it's still garbage in the end. Bah, humbug.

Savvy

2007-11-23T08:56:00.000+07:00

As Thailand gears up for the December 23rd post-coup election, politicians pledged to keep the proceedings clean. But on the receiving side, a recent poll revealed that 2/3rds of Thais would exchange their vote for cash and gifts.

The Nation reports that vote-buying tactics are becoming quite creative, encompassing new means of discreet "favor" transfer.

One such method is through electronic transfers via ATM machines and 7-Eleven Smart Cards, instead of direct cash hand-outs. Another practice is a barter system where vote-sellers pick up commodities from local village shops on the vote-buyer's tab. Buying on credit is common in villages anyway. Other gifts include pre-paid mobile phone cards, tuition payments, and outings.

The going rates range from B200 to B500 per individual vote (limit one per family, please!). Joining an anti-government mob in Bangkok pays about B300 to B400. Coming to a political rally to make a candidate appear more popular runs from B100 to B200, and vehicle owners who transport people to a rally may receive Bt1,000 to Bt2,000 per pick-up.

Temple Fair

2007-11-18T22:31:00.000+07:00

This evening, we braved the crowds at Wat Saket to attend the annual temple fair. The event runs for nine days in November, culminating on the 24th, when the full moon ascends above the city.

At the entrance, smoke billowed from the charcoal grills of the Jiraphan halal stall, and a queue formed for their famous chicken. Inside the grounds, other vendors hawked everything from noodle soup and deep fried bugs to sneakers and pink shirts.

The fair also included typical attractions, including rides and games, but many visitors came primarily to place offerings in front of the Buddha images housed at the Golden Mount.

We gingerly followed the crowd up the 300-some stairs. The walk was accompanied by the constant clanging of heavy bells and a microphoned voice blaring the attributes of making merit. Signs pointing towards the top of the chedi read, "the way to Heaven."

The Mount was wrapped in a red cloth and illuminated by floodlights. We didn't get to the very top of the structure, but were high enough to take in panoramic views of Bangkok at night, spotting the Grand Palace and Ratchadamnoen Avenue in the distance. The way down was somewhat quieter, and a nice breeze danced in the air.

Despite the crowd, it was interesting to experience the vibe of the fair. It's still feels very local and there's something nostalgic about it, as such events don't seem to be a major part of most people's lives anymore. At least not in Bangkok.

Rudeness, as usual

2007-11-18T11:56:00.001+07:00

Local politics have been quite boring, but here's a funny cartoon from last week's Nation.

Red Chopsticks

2007-11-13T16:04:00.001+07:00

Our friend's brother is an instant food mogul, and he's launched a cool new brand! Check out this site, and help support Red Chopsticks' healthy alternative to instant noodles. Available at Tops and Central Food Hall. Slurp, slurp...ummmm...

Think pink

2007-11-09T10:36:00.000+07:00

Last year, yellow was the must-have color of the season. Despite the glaring hues of the shirts available in the market, the yellow trend has endured, especially on Mondays. Why? There is a specific color tied to each day of the week, and Monday's (the day the King was born) color happens to be yellow.

The color designations are based on pre-Buddhist Hindu legends about creation. While wearing the right color on the appropriate day is believed to bring good luck, yellow has also become a symbol of devotion to, and goodwill toward, the monarchy.

When His Majesty was in the hospital, astrologers declared that pink (Tuesday's color) was an auspicious color for the King, helping him recover faster. The trend didn't take off until he left the hospital donning a pink shirt and blazer, sparking the fuschia frenzy. Buyers and sellers are now getting into all things pink. It's the new yellow!

Waiting for the motorcade

2007-11-07T13:19:00.000+07:00

H.M. the King left Siriraj Hospital today, without prior announcement. The motorcade passed our office around noon on its way back to the Palace.

The mood was clearly festive, charged with excitement. People eagerly ran outside upon learning the news via word of mouth. They waited for the motorcade, and watched intently and waved flags when it passed. Visibly thinner and wearing a pink jacket, the King appeared to be in good spirits, waving back.

Yup, delight and good cheer upon seeing the King have dictated the mood for the rest of everyone's day...

(photo from The Nation website)

Happy Halloween

2007-10-31T22:48:00.002+07:00

(Click image to enlarge)

Carless

2007-10-27T22:29:00.001+07:00

Not driving is great. Moving around by sky train, subway, and taxis more these days. And today, the boat.

Took the Chao Phraya Express Boat from Taksin Bridge to Siriraj. 18 baht and a 25 minute ride. Not bad. Felt a bit touristy, passing all the temples and colonial-style buildings, but it was pretty fun.

Makes you realize that central Bangkok isn't really that big. It just takes forever to get anywhere by road.

While it saves time, PT costs more than buying gasoline as we usually have to switch from one mode of transport to another to get to most of our destinations. But so far, it has been worth it. Less road rage. Yay us.

Siriraj

2007-10-27T10:35:00.000+07:00

Last Thursday, we went to Siriraj, where H.M. the King is recovering from a stroke. He's been here since October 13th. According to the news, he's recuperating and will be discharged soon.

We were actually at the hospital because Mai's mom had a knee replaced (it went well, and she's recovering). While waiting for her to come out of surgery, we wandered around the hospital grounds.

The monarchy has such an overwhelming emotional grip on people... Hoards of yellow-clad well-wishers were in the courtyard, signing the get-well books, singing, and praying. People surrounded television reporters, waving pictures of the King. Hundreds of policemen loitered about, homeless people camped on the lawn, and a blind saxophonist belted out H.M.'s compositions. Officials passed out free food and drinks.

Visitor numbers surged toward the end of the week as it was announced that the King's sister H.R.H. Princess Galayani Vadhana is not doing well. She's 84, suffers from cancer, and has been at Siriraj since June. It's quite sad and worrying. Can't help but feel nervous about what the future holds for the socio-psychological state of the nation.

Who?

2007-10-24T10:53:00.000+07:00

Guess we're set for Dec. 23 elections.

Parties scramble to merge, members regularly defect from one party to another, and new parties, at least in name, emerge. It's kind of an interesting strategic game to grab the most seats in Parliament. Seems the contenders are either a guise of TRT, against TRT, or former TRT (but not necessarily TRT loyalists). Infinitely fascinating, I know. :P

Since no one cares about the parties' platform (a recent ABAC poll revealed that 2/3rds of Thais would exchange their vote for cash or gifts), we're going with the Party with the most creative name (yet to be decided):

* Democratic Party (Prachatipat) - more liberal and anti-TRT
* Thai Nation Party (Chart Thai) - massage parlor tycoon Chuwit's party
* Great People Party (Pracha Raj) - former TRT ties; similar populist agenda
* Thais United National Development Party (Ruam Jai Thai Chat Pattana) - former TRT ties
* Neutral Democratic Party (Matchima) - former TRT ties; similar populist agenda
* For the Motherland Party (Pua Paendin) - former TRT ties
* People's Party for Debt Forgiveness/Free Thai Party (Khonkhoplodnee/Thai Pen Thai)
* New Aspiration Party (Khwam Wang Mai) - incarnation of the old New Aspiration Party that merged with TRT
* Citizens' Party
* Social Action Party
* Mass Party/People's Alliance for Democracy - against TRT
* People Power Party (Palang Prachachon) - TRT proxy

I am sure there are some I missed. Meh.

Dispatch from NYC

2007-10-15T11:13:00.000+07:00

Our NYC lawyer/cat correspondent sent a report from the Iams Cat Championship over the weekend. The highlight (for me, at least)? Spotted amongst the pretties at Madison Square Garden was a Zach-lookalike wearing a neck tutu. Hehehe. Cat in drag!

Mallrats

2007-10-13T20:33:00.000+07:00

Another showery Saturday. Since breakfast, rain was coming down in sheets, with sporadic lightning accompanied by the distant rumbling of thunder. The cats went into hiding, huddling under the bathroom sink. It all encouraged a languid sort of mood but we decided to spend the afternoon at the mega-mall.

We caught the sky train at Asok, heading toward Siam Paragon, the self-proclaimed Pride of Bangkok, with the Refined Vision of Entertainment Civilization. Eh he he...(dull chuckle).

A cavernous monstrosity, Paragon has three Starbucks outlets on different floors. The hundreds of stalls and stores literally stock everything, from salapao and manga to designer handbags and Ferraris. Convenient, yes, but also grossly excessive, an understatement. Don't think there's any mall quite like this one, with an aquarium and IMAX theater in the same complex.

Despite its vastness and the muted din of live marketing schemes blaring the attributes of some product or another, Paragon has nice bookstores, especially Kinokuniya. Many of the books are encased in plastic, making browsing a challenge. In the end, we picked up books on cheese and yoga (two separate titles).

We grabbed an early dinner at Spice Story in the Food Hall. Because of the ongoing vegetarian festival, all offerings consisted of gluten disguised as meat. As with past kin jay festivals, the food (mock duck noodle soup, mock kao mun gai) sounded better than it tasted. Having satiated our consumerist urges, we hopped back on train for a quiet evening at home. No more Siam Paragon for awhile.

Exigent

2007-10-11T12:21:00.000+07:00

(Click image to enlarge)

October 6 memories

2007-10-10T12:08:00.001+07:00

October 6 came and went. And I didn't remember what happened on that date more than thirty years ago until it came up in conversation with two retired Thammasat professors. In their 70s, the professors remarked they did not see any public remembrances of Hok Tulaa (Oct. 6, 1976) this year, at least not in the media, and that the day passed quietly.

With little goading, the professors recalled what happened at the University during that turbulent phase in Thai politics. In 1973, a leftist student-led movement (supported by the urban middle class) paved the way to a democracy by ousting Field Marshall Thanom Kittikachon, representing the combined forces of the old ruling class and the army.

But subsequent elected parties failed to secure power. The oil crisis was in full swing, US forces withdrew from Thailand, and Indochinese neighbors fell to communism.

Societal polarization was growing, with protests erupting from both the left and the right. Phone lines were cut and professors were barricaded in their offices, listening for developments. No one dared wear any adornments to attract any sort of attention.

The growing tensions ruptured when FM Thanom returned from exile, under the guise of a Buddhist monk. Enraged student protesters and labor groups were labeled as communists by the army and other right-wing parties, sparking an anti-communist frenzy.

On October 6, paramilitary forces freely fired at students and civilians on Thammasat's campus. Captured protesters were forced to lie shirtless on the ground, some beaten, some already dead. Not only were bullet holes spattered on walls, someone had hacked at the buildings with an ax. Science labs were completely destroyed, a hole blown through the walls.

The professors said it was conducted like a lynching. Students were beaten, set ablaze, and/or killed, at times before a cheering crowd. Books were ordered to be torched publicly but professors tried to salvage important publications and historical records by hiding them in the rare books library.

October 6 truly constitutes a scary moment in modern Thai history. What's more, it is one not officially acknowledged with the resultant carnage. Without accountability, it is impossible to fully understand why things happened as they did. But without oral history, it would have long-slipped from public consciousness.

Crackdown in Burma

2007-10-01T11:05:00.000+07:00

A photo that speaks for itself...

Burma Protests

2007-09-27T10:15:00.000+07:00

Violence broke in Burma, after a month of escalating tension, resulting in five dead.

It has been reported than Than Shwe's family has taken refuge in Bangkok this week (why?!). What that means is uncertain at this point - perhaps the end of the dictatorship is near, hopefully without more bloodshed. Nevertheless, Thailand is bracing for an influx of refugees if the clashes worsen.

To follow the events, check out the Irrawaddy News at http://www.irrawaddy.org.

Dog registration

2007-09-25T17:09:00.000+07:00

Bangkok dog owners now have to register and microchip their pooches by July 4th. Those failing to do so will face fines and risk having their pet taken away. The city estimates that there are more than 800,000 dogs in the city.

While it deters abandonment of dogs by owners, what about the street strays? Most people, even if they have been feeding the dogs in their neighborhood, are not going to bother registering them.

Should the BMA implement a large-scale spay and neuter program to first curb the problem? And then register and microchip? Maybe no one has bothered to spay or neuter in the first place. Tough call.

Happily, cats can stay put and not be on the radar, as is their preference.

Sheer bossiness

2007-09-22T14:56:00.001+07:00

(Click image to enlarge)

Sunday Haunt

2007-09-16T20:49:00.000+07:00

We visited the Mae Nak Prakanong Shrine at Wat Mahabut in On Nut Soi 7 this afternoon. There's a summary of the story behind this shrine on our other blog.

Would have preferred being there in broad daylight instead of on a dreary, wet Sunday. The weather was odd - rain fell on and off in heavy sheets, accompanied by blinding lighting and splitting thunder that night.

Anyway, tucked away in the corner of the temple, by the Prakanong klong, is this shrine. People pray and prostrate before a gold leaf-encrusted statue of Mae Nak and her baby. There were surrounded by heaps of gifts - clothes, toys, cosmetics, diapers, powdered milk, and cash. Even a working television, offering entertainment.

It was completely kitschy, but impressive. And chilling.

From origins as a fierce ghost, Mae Nak is now regarded as a community benefactor, and Prakanong residents were upset that the temple was re-zoned into Suan Luang District. All kinds of businesses thrive here, especially fortune tellers, mystics, small aquatic animal sellers (for release in the klong for merit), and toy vendors.

Worshipers flock here to seek winning lottery numbers, usually revealed by Mae Nak in the natural wood patterns of the takian tree under which she is supposedly buried. Apparently, some people rub the trunk with oil for hours, and the fabric-swathed tree is looking a bit gray.

About a dozen scrawny cats trotted after a sack-wielding man when we left the shrine. Yet another strange sight in an overall surreal day. Later than evening, we learn about the terrible plane crash in Phuket that was partially due to the weird weather, adding to the unsettling feeling in the pit of my stomach.

Bath day

2007-09-08T12:19:00.001+07:00

(Click image to enlarge)

Vandalism

2007-09-07T22:07:00.000+07:00

Funky graffiti spotted in the old Ford lot from Asok BTS station...

Mass mooning

2007-09-07T14:37:00.000+07:00

Protesters organized a public mooning in Sydney's Hyde Park today while Bushie is in town for APEC. They need 2,000 butts (or 4,000 cheeks) to break the Sweden's 2001 world record, also inspired by Bush.

Why? Because "mooning is the universal human gesture of contempt." Is there a Thai delegation? Had we known earlier...

Update: It took place with about 50 bums present. Aw! Not enough asses to break the record but a fairly decent mooning for Asia-Pacific, I guess. (_|_)

Traffic report

2007-09-06T12:38:00.000+07:00

Traffic has been extraordinarily bad this past month, especially in Nana. Construction in Soi 11 created much of the congestion, especially when it rains. Avoid!

Almost threw a fit trying to navigate among double-parked taxis, heedless motorcycles, haphazard pedestrians, aggressive lane changing, hawkers... This, and being hit twice this year, makes Bkk driving a huge, mind-numbing bore. Avoid!

YouTube...is...awesome !

2007-09-04T16:45:00.000+07:00

In honor of YouTube returning to Thailand, here is an interesting 80s clip. How did we live without this for five months? I do not know.

Well, well...

2007-08-31T10:50:00.000+07:00

(Click image to enlarge)

My bad

2007-08-21T12:18:00.000+07:00

(Click image to enlarge)

Charter approved

2007-08-20T13:17:00.000+07:00

Voter turnout: 56% (26 million ballots cast nation-wide)
Bangkok results: Yes, 65%; No, 34%; Void, 1%
National results: Yes, 57%; No, 41%; Void, 2%

Usual themes: vote-buying allegations; urban middle class-rural poor polarization
Immediate reactions: no surprise; stock market up a few points at opening
Next steps: Royal endorsement and Dec. elections; wait and see

Big picture: A military-backed constitution with questionable motives (e.g., amnesty for past and future actions of coup leaders; weakening of political party system, potentially reverting to one fraught with weak, multi-party coalitions, highly susceptible to coups)

The alternative: ?

Boooooring!

2007-08-17T14:01:00.001+07:00

(Click image to enlarge)

Indecisive

2007-08-14T13:29:00.000+07:00

Yes or no? As the referendum fast approaches, arguments from both sides have failed to sway my sentiment either way. I appreciate my little yellow book but am starting to feel blase about it all.

Those supporting ratification of the draft constitution are basically squeamish living under junta rule, hoping for a speedy return to democracy in the form of national elections, or just tired of all this blabber. There is also the argument that the accepted constitution can be amended anyway, so it's best to vote yes to ensure that we move forward with "normal" democratic processes, and thus, signal to the outside world, and to financial markets, a return to greater stability in the country.

Those who are against the draft are comprised of groups on opposite ends of the socio-political spectrum. Basically, these are the urban academics and the traditionally rural-based poor. The academia argument is that a yes vote grants legitimacy to the September coup, sending a signal to the military leaders that they can do whatever they want (wonder if this has this ever not been the case?). Academics also deride the draft's creation of unbalanced power spheres within the military and the bureaucracy.

In Bangkok, the other, staunchly anti-charter voters are most visibly, the motorcycle and taxi drivers. These pro-Thaksiners fully support, and miss (as their bumper stickers attest) their deep-pocketed idol. Inevitably, rumors that funds from abroad will be used to pay off such voters have surfaced. On the other hand, the government itself is accused of paying Central province villagers to come to Bangkok to rally in support the new constitution this past weekend.

I support moving forward, yet do not fully believe the necessity of a new constitution, especially if the old one can be amended. Perhaps its drafting was a means of starting anew, of erasing traces of the old regime from the system. But it's also time-consuming, wasteful, and questionable. Are we better off in the end? I accept certain arguments posed by both sides, and that makes it impossible to decide.

The majority of registered Bangkokians will probably vote for the charter but a fair number of people seem undecided. Former TRT-strongholds and many rural constituencies will, of course, vote no. Either way, I don't think the outcome will throw the country into chaos or further divide the nation, as some warn. We have long been polarized, disenfranchised, or disinterested.

Uh, !?!?

2007-08-08T00:41:00.000+07:00

Initially thought this was a joke. But no, Bangkok police are implementing a policy where officers will wear a pink Hello Kitty armband as punishment for misdemeanors, such as tardiness and littering. The NY Times reports that, "stronger measures could be next for corruption and extrajudicial killings."

Like what? My Melody ear muffs?

Upcoming Referendum

2007-08-02T22:08:00.000+07:00

(Click image to enlarge)

Phuket Weekend

2007-07-31T10:56:00.000+07:00

Hopped down to Phuket for the Second Annual V&M Glut-fest. This time, we stayed at Evason Six Senses Spa, near Rawai Beach on the southeastern corner of the island. The resort overlooks the Andaman Sea and many small islands with coral reefs. Very good for beach hopping, swimming, and snorkeling, although sneaky little fish attempt to nibble on your (well, my) pasty skin. Ate too much, roasted like rotisserie chickens, and got ear candling. Cramming as much relaxation as possible in three days, we declare Glut-fest '07 a success.