Kyoto

This city is more relaxed, well-complementing Tokyo’s flurry of people, cars, and neon. We stayed at a small, pleasant ryokan called Kikokuso (above). Its gracious proprietor (“Ryokan Grandma”) served tasty multi-dish veggie breakfasts, laid out futons on the tatami-lined floor, and uttered an overly-enthused “dozo!” at each encounter. The ryokan also had a Shiba Inu -- Gonta – who snoozed all day and sat out front in the evenings.

Kyoto’s allure lies in its cultural heritage but it’s easy to suffer from UNESCO World Heritage Site overload (there are seventeen here). We started out at the tranquil Shosei-en garden, as it was across the street from the ryokan. Spring was evident in the crisp morning air; new leaves were leaden with raindrops and pink petals littered the grounds (we missed the height of the cherry blossom season by a couple of weeks).

After Shosei-en, we visited its affiliated temples, Nishi Honganji and Higashi Honganji. Both are impressive wooden buildings that are undergoing major renovations. Unfortunately, the main hall of Higashi is completely encased by a temporary structure.

The mediocre, but very healthy lunch at Biotei (a veg-friendly eatery featured in Lonely Planet) had to be tempered with donuts and cream-filled dessert elsewhere. We then trudged through a chilling rain to Nijo Castle, a relatively small residence of the Tokugawa Shogunate, boasting exquisitely painted tiger screens and chirping floorboards that warn of potential intruders.

We breezed through Nijo’s gardens and headed out by dinnertime. It was a cold, exhausting day, and the evening soak in the ryokan’s hot bath was much welcomed.