Amphawa

Jen and Raf were in town, and requested an "authentic" Thai market experience (no surprise, after going to Chatuchak!). After scant research, we headed to an evening floating market in Amphawa district, Samut Songkhram.

It was sort of authentic in that it had a very local, haphazard feel to it. And it was a completely sensory experience, not recommended for those susceptible to vertigo or agoraphobia.

There were loads of interesting food and other product stalls, including those on boats. And very few non-Asian faces amongst the thousands of visitors vying for space on canal banks to observe the floating market, buy things, and board long-tailed boats chartered for late evening fire fly viewing by the Mae Klong River.

At this rate of activity, Amphawa is on the verge of becoming overrated. Homestays are cropping up everywhere, especially in vintage shophouses lining the banks of the small canals off the main river.

There is insufficient infrastructure to support the crowd. Railing-less banks and packed bridges are accidents waiting to happen. Also, the air is increasingly infused with noise and fumes from tour boats' diesel engines.

With a more sustainable management plan, Amphawa could be quite nice. It boasts a charming, retro sentiment that some businesses have captured (or retained) beautifully. But too many visitors are encouraging all sorts of new ventures, destroying the traditionally laid-back environment of life on the river banks.