Borobudur

Went to Yogyakarta for the long weekend with my pal Bee awhile ago, but haven't gotten around to finishing and posting the entry until today. My impressions of Yogya are good: friendly faces, interesting sites, and decent massages (tho not as excruciatingly satisfying as Thai ones).

Borobudur was easily the most memorable place. We got there at 4:30am, with the initial intent of avoiding crowds; in retrospect, the early hour made a huge difference to the overall experience.

The grounds were scantily lit, and we stumbled around a bit, eventually heading towards the silhouette of the massive stupa that crowns the monument. A pre-dawn chill lingered in the dewy air, a sensation I'd sooner associate with Boston in the late spring than with Southeast Asia in July.

Armed with pocket flashlights, we gingerly climbed to the top of the multi-tiered structure. It was slightly disconcerting. Shadowy figures circled the various levels, and an occasional camera flash blasted the area with light.

At the top, we sat quietly, anticipating sunrise.

As first light broke, the magnitude of the temple was dramatically revealed. In an instant, we found ourselves surrounded by dozens of small latticed stupas and life-sized Buddha images, some with heads and some without.

Below, a wispy mist weaved among the bucolic surroundings. In the distance, a smoldering volcano emerged, tinged with the fiery light of the rising sun.

It was magical, and a little bit surreal.

As if on cue, the crowing of village roosters pierced the silence. Yet somehow, a sense of serenity, a quietly powerful force, remained.